Thankfully, the newer HPD kits shift with the oil scavenge pump already fully assembled. So that part of the assemble process is greatly simplified.

The HPD manual refers to an "oil pan gasket" when installing the new pan. But the stock pan is sealed with a generous amount of gray silicone (seen here). The trick it to get it all cleaned off without dropping any into the engine.

The other side is similar.

The area around the rear oil pan seal was particularly difficult to clean up. This would have been nuch easier with the flywheel removed (which turns out to be necessary anyway).

Installation of the wiring harness. Everything is neatly labeled and really it only can go on one way. So this part was easier than I thought.

Installation of the rubber gaskets from the original intake plenum onto the new HPD unit.

New throttle body and restrictor installed.

Now it is starting to look like a 'real' racing engine!

This was the source of some mystery for me. The HPD manual says "Use original oil drain plug and washer to replace the PVC fitting". I had a hard time figuring out what fitting they were talking about. Turns out it is the vent that goes up to the intake runner. The intake runner side gets blocked with a metal plug later in the process. The other side is mid-block above the starter. Remove the nipple and install the old pan's drain plug.

Metal plug installed in the intake runner. Takes lots of heat and tapping with a hammer to get it in there.

EGR blocking plate installed. Nice annodized professional looking pieces.

Now the intake runners can go back on.

Cam sensor removed and the water outlet nipple can be removed. The manual warns to remove the cam sensor, becuase you need to heat the casting surrounding the nipple to remove it. Be careful to fully clean the threads after removing the nipple. NO LEAKS.

Finally the reassembly process has begun. The EGR blockoff plate is installed.

After cleaning the threads this blockoff plate goes on in place of the water outlet nipple.

And after much careful cleaning of the mating surface the new HPD water outlet housing is installed. I sealed it with blue RTV.

Pan removed. True to the HPD manual it was not too difficult. A few love taps with a soft hammer and the seal broke. Removing all of the factory silicone sealant was another matter. I was very cautious so as not to get any into the engine cavity.

These two front cover bolts have to be removed and their flanges turned down. If you do not do this the new pan may foul them and it will not seal properly. (Talk about a potential bummer later on. Imagine getting the whole install done, firing the motor up, and seeing a huge oil leak around the bottom of the pan).

Left front bolt reinstalled - it now allows the pan to clear.

Right front bolt installed.

Here is where my logic failed on attaching the yoke to the engine. How can I remove the oil pan with the bottom two posts attached to it? Back to the drawing board...

So... Remove the starter and place one attachment point at the bottom starter mounting point.

Move the right side yoke finger up to the same point on the right side of the engine.

Now I am ready to proceed. BUT REMEMBER THIS - the engine ships with a full load of oil in it. So drain the engine before proceeding or you will be hating life in a few minutes.

Getting ready to put the engine on the stand... Can you spot the flaw in my logic?

I used some oversized nuts to space the engine stand yoke away from the flywheel and clutch.

The life cart makes it easlier to put the engine at the right height to slide the yoke into the stand.

Harmonic Balance aligned with the mark, and ready for "easy" removal with my trusty SnapOn impact wrench. (More on that later)